Belize It Or Not

Home away from home

2006-07-16T08:25:00.000-06:00

It's a regular Saturday in Belize. The sun is shining, the humidity is on the verge of oppressive and the heat of the sun wraps around with the comfort of a blanket. I wake up at eight in the morning. Michael is already up and getting ready for the day ahead. We look out at the ocean from our apartment to see if any storms are heading towards us. It is the rainy season, but today the sky is no-worries blue. I perk coffee while Michael gets his big breakfast of papaya, bananas with a mix of at least three cereals together. We sit leisurely. There is no rush.

Once dishes are clean and put away we head out to the Pickwick Club across the street for our work out. The ocean and palm trees paint the backdrop to our short walk. In Belizean fashion we say good morning to everyone who crosses your path; no recognition required. After a good sweat we jump into the club pool and sit out in the sun lathered in sunscreen. The Central American sun will roast you in minutes. The heat feels amazing, but moving to the safety of shade is necessary. We start to get a little hungry and decide it's time to head home.

After a hot cooked lunch, sandwiches are unheard of here, we get picked up by Gastone and Marta to watch some European football at the Riverside Tavern. Walking into the pub you feel like you've been transported to an American sports bar. It is a popular spot for the ex-pat community. We are joined by Mirna, our Thursday night pilates instructor, and say hi to all the familiar faces around us. We laugh, drink and watch Gastone's changing reactions to his home team's performance. He hasn't stopped smiling since the Italian World Cup win. Once the game is over and the chatting is done it's siesta time. Michael and I curl up into bed for a bit of nap at home before the evening comes.

We wake up before dinner time and head out to the local Indian restaurant called Sumathi. It's just down the street and makes for an easy and tasty dinner out. On the way to the restaurant we pass Richard and Maria's flat. They are sitting on their balcony and invite us up for a drink. Richard is the owner of Premium Wines and has an arsenal of wine and liquor at his fingertips. One drink turns into five. The four of us decide to get the buttered chicken and naan delivered. Five drinks turns into ten and five hours has passed quickly with debate and laughter. It's time for Michael and I to stumble home.

After six months in Belize, we have discovered a circle of friends and have found comfortable routine. Being newlyweds and on our own, Michael and I have become a real team. We look to our future and think of parents who reminisce about their first year together as a married couple. The cheap apartments they lived in, subjects studied and jobs they held are always main attractions to the tales told. Michael and I feel lucky to have our story begin in Belize. We will hold the memories and friends we have made here close to our hearts. We have made this place our home away from home.

A couple weekends portrayed in pictures

2006-07-03T11:35:00.000-06:00

Michael at one of Belize's largest churches, Holy Redeemer, for an Indian Catholic wedding.

A little cake full of bubbles for the bride and groom.

Danesh and Michael chat it up during the wonderful Indian reception.

Ashok is like many people from Belize's Indian community, very welcoming and kind.

Jason, winner of Taste of Belize's culinary competition, and his expecting wife Rachel.

David and Sarah, Scotiabank's commercial banking manager, enjoying the wedding celebrations.

Michael dancing the night away!

Amit and Sharon, the happy couple enjoying their wedding with smiles all around.

Looking forward to fresh seafood at Caye Caulker's annual lobster festival.

Checking out the BBQ's and bars on the beach.

Our friend Vern and his son, Vern Jr., happily hanging out together.

In true Belizean style we headed north to Chetumal, Mexico for a little shopping therapy.

Michael manages to influence our friend Gastone.

'No Michael, you don't look like a small sickly child.'

Marta and Gastone looking for deals at Chedraui, a Mexican superstore.

Michael's favourite aisle in the grocery store, candy of course.

Sushi and the Submerged Crocodile

2006-06-19T11:51:00.000-06:00

Sushi, the submerged crocodile and learning standard covers our weekend's adventure. With only a month left here in Belize, Michael and I are starting to feel pressure. We figure we have to pack as many adventures into our few remaining weekends as we can. So this weekend we set out to have fun with friends, hang out in the jungle and of course to learn something new.

We started the weekend here in Belize City. Friday, we headed out with some friends to Chon Saan Palace. This Chinese food restaurant is a local favourite. If you know us you might be thinking 'Chinese food, you guys never eat that', but we were there to try something much riskier, sushi in Belize. In a country where you can't buy fresh salmon at the grocery store, we were getting ready to eat it raw.

Remarkably enough, the food was just fine or maybe it was all the sake I drank. I'm still not entirely sure. Food aside, hanging out with friends was fantastic. We enjoyed the evening with Mirna, our pilates instructor, Maria and Marta, from our pilates class and Gastone, Marta's husband and my new produce shopping buddy. The evening was a great kick off for the next couple of days to come.

On Saturday, after our usual trip to the gym, we relaxed for a bit before heading out in the bank's pick up truck to Lamanai. Lamanai, Mayan for the 'submerged crocodile', is one of the largest and most picturesque Mayan ruin sites in Belize. Set on the New River Lagoon, the site has three temples with unique carvings and an unusual ball court, where the Mayans used to play games reenacting their battles. After seeing other Mayan ruins in the Mundo Maya, we were drawn to Lamanai for it's unique characteristics. We were also excited for our overnight stay at Lamanai Outpost resort.

Along the way to Lamanai you get to drive through one of Belize's Mennonite communities. The experience is quite surreal. Being surrounded by Carribean Kriol and Central American Spanish for so long the sight of blond hair and blue eyes seems strange. The Mennonite's drive these low-to-the-ground horse and carriages and they all wear the same kind of uniform. Men in black overalls, collar shirt and straw hat and women in puffy armed full skirted dresses with bonnets on their heads. They were very friendly. Always moving to the side of the road and waving as we passed. We are happy we got the chance to see one of the Mennonite communities, but with dirt path being one of the worst 'roads' we have ever been on, we were happy to arrive at Lamanai Outpost resort.

As you enter the resort, you are first taken a back by the amazing view through the trees of the lagoon below. The open air thatched roof dining area cleverly takes advantage of the view. We were graciously welcomed and taken to out thatched roof villa. The interior was simple and elegant, with a comfy ultra suede couch, sink into softness bed and emacualte bathroom. With some time before dinner we set out to explore the well maintained grounds of the resort.

We ended up at the dock on the lagoon. It had that very familiar feeling of being on the lake by the cottage. We immediately relaxed on the dock enjoying the view. The familiarity brought a sense of serenity with it. After some time by the water, we headed up to the main building for dinner.

I finally tried a Belizean dish called fish sere. It's white fish and vegetables cooked in coconut milk. Although I only ate the fish, it was very good. The dining area was beautiful at sunset. With candle light, jazz music and a breeze from the lagoon below we were thrilled to be there.

Mark, the owner of Lamanai Outpost, is an Australian Michael met through the bank. Over the years Mark has built Lamanai Outpost as it's own little city. They sanitize their own water, create their own electricity and have their own satellite, providing phone, television and wireless internet. Mark has also hired great people to help run the resort. The dining manager, Lou, who we met over dinner was remarkably attentive. Ken, our tour guide, was knowledgeable and fun. He was like one of those great camp counselors from your childhood that you never forget.

On Sunday morning, we joined the resort's tour to Lamani's ruins. We were with an entire family, made up of grandparents, their two children and spouses with the grandkids. They were an adventurous family from the States, travelling all together every two years to different spots on the globe. We were also joined by a friendly couple from Amsterdam. They took a very long flight to be in Belize for a week of vacation. We realized very quickly why these travellers chose Lamanai Outpost.

Beyond the amazing grounds and luxury accomodations, the resort has a variety of activities to take advantage of. Every night you stay entitles you to two activites. Some of the favourites include: the tour of Lamanai's ruins, 'New River at Dawn' sunrise boat ride and breakfast on the river, 'Howler Monkey Trek' through the jungle to meet some of Central America's favourite monkey, the 'Sunset Cocktail Cruise' on the New River and the after dark, the 'Crocodile Encounter' where you get to meet an endangered Morelet crocodile. If you want to just relax you can go for a swim in the lagoon or just take the resort's canoes out on the calm waters. If time permitted we would definitely return.

Our tour of the ruins were informative and fun. Ken, our guide, explained the story of Lamani's ruler Lord Smoking Shell and the importance of the pre-Classic Mayan trading city to the region. Of course, Michael and I climbed the steep incline of El Castillo, High Temple. With lots of practice ascending and descending Mayan Temples over the last five months we realized we were quite good at it. There really is a technique to coming down those scary stairs. The faces on the temple walls made them different from the structures at Altun Ha and Tikal. Besides the mounting attack of mosquitos as the day progressed the tour was perfect.

Upon our return from the tour we sat down to a tasty lunch at the resort. Michael managed to entertain Lou and others with his signature 'dirty' napkin tricks. We chatted with Mark, the owner, and we finally found a little something Belizean to take home with us. The Lamanai Outpost gift shop had some of the best art pieces we've seen since our arrival in Belize. We settle on two 'rubbings' of Mayan stone carvings, known as stelae. After collecting our belongings and some 'good byes' we headed off on our return to the city.

The bumpy, an partially desserted, road heading back afforded the perfect opportunity for Michael to teach me how to drive a standard vehicle. Driving standard wasn't nearly as scary as I thought it would be. I did let Michael take over again after some practice. I was focussing on the gears and did not feel confident enough amongst the maze of innocent Mennonite families in horse drawn carriages.

From start to finish the weekend was great. As we count down our weekends left in Belize, this past weekend of friends and adventure reminded us of all that we will miss.

The Pics to Prove It

The dock on New River Lagoon at Lamanai Outpost.

Michael 'driving' Lamanai Outpost's cool black boat.

Amazing view of the New River Lagoon from the dining area of Lamanai Outpost.

Hey Ken, nice binoculars!

The jaguar face of Jaguar Temple at Lamanai.

Michael being a monkey, again.

Centre court of the unusual Mayan ball court.

Getting ready to climb High Temple.

Making it to the top always gives great views.

Michael on top of the world.

Coming down is always harder, but worth it.

Michael 'lounging' in Lamani's acropolis.

The creepy Olmec mask with crocodile head dress at Mask Temple.

Belize's national flower the black orchid.

Michael had to take this picture. I'll let you guess why.

Tasting Lou's drink creation over lunch.

'The shirt' was purposely left at home to avoid embarrassment, but was eagerly worn when we arrived home.

The Happy Couple

2006-06-14T08:20:00.000-06:00

A week ago, I asked my brother, Joey, when he was going to finally ask his girlfriend, Kathleen, to marry him. They had recently moved in together and everything was going exceptionally well. They make eachother so happy. So I felt it is my duty as a sister to ask such questions. His response was that he was putting off the deed as long as possible. Well, that wasn't true. I don't know what surprises me more the fact that I couldn't read the truth behind his answer or that he managed to actually keep a secret. Either way he wasn't waiting for anything. He had a plan.

Last night Michael and I received an excited call over the internet from Joey and Kathleen. They are engaged and will be getting married! We are thrilled for my borther and his bride to be. We love them very much, wish them all the best and can't wait to give them both a huge hug and kiss.

Wicked Jungle Weekend

2006-05-24T11:42:00.000-06:00

It wasn't the average May long weekend. Exploring Belize took us into the jungle for an adventure we'll never forget. We've done our share adventure traveling, but our stay at Caves Branch in the heart if the Belizean jungle was just what we needed to get our adrenaline going.

Months ago, at a silent auction, we hovered over a vacation package for two nights, all meals and an adventure for two at Ian Anderson's Caves Branch Jungle Resort. We didn't realize what we were bidding on, but after experiencing this weekend we know our instincts were right.

Caves Branch Jungle Resort is set in the picturesque green of the jungle. Feeling fully isolated the resort is small and attracts travelers looking for a thrill. Acres upon acres of land was bought 15 years ago by a Vancouverite, Ian Anderson, who explored the area and built the resort from scratch. Ian and his family still live at the resort and frequently hangs out with travelers who stop by. Over dinner our first night he told us stories of discovering caves and trails in the jungle around us. He and his crew went into the jungle uncovering close to 70 caves. At the time, Belize's Department of Archaeology knew of just four. Ian is a true pioneer.

Caves Branch Resort has a main building where all guests share meals at set times. There are varying accommodations at varying prices for everyone from backpackers looking for a place to pitch their tents to honeymooners looking for a romantic and private getaway. We stayed in one of their upgraded Jungle Bungalows. The stand alone structure had large screens along the walls leaving us open to the elements of the jungle. Hearing the jungle at all times was so relaxing. We didn't even mind being woken at three in the morning to the screams of howler monkeys who live near by.

We arrived on Saturday afternoon and took the opportunity to relax on hammocks in the jungle. We had already decided what adventure we wanted to experience. The resort offers the ever popular cave tubing and zip lines, but those activities didn't seem to pose a big enough challenge for Michael and I. After our expeditions in New Zealand, we feel like we can do anything. How could we resist the adventure titled 'Waterfall Cave Expedition'. With a vague explanation of something to do with climbing waterfalls in caves we were ready for anything.

After a great breakfast with new fast friends at the resort we headed out for the day. It was raining, but we didn't care; we'd be in a cave all day. We took a ride on the back of a pickup truck. A very dangerous and Belizean thing to do. After passing through orange groves in the vehicle we headed into the jungle for a short hike to the cave. We each received a pack with drinking water, a life jacket, a rope and a helmet with a head lamp. We didn't understand why we were handed life jackets as the rainy season hasn't set in yet. We put it to safety procedure and didn't think to much of it.

At the cave entrance we were met by a community of bats. After brief observation of the flying rodents we moved on. With five hours of underground fun ahead of us we needed to get going. As we headed in to the cave it was bone dry. We made our way ducking under and around rocks. As we traveled through we began to encounter puddles of water that slowly became small streams. At one point Michael and our new English friend Phillip were jumping rock to rock avoiding getting their shoes wet. It was pointed out to them that they would be getting very wet very soon. We thought we knew what was coming, but really had no idea.

In New Zealand we went caving. So of course we assumed we knew everything there is to know about being underground. Well, you know what they sat about assuming. We obviously had no clue. In New Zealand we went tubing and had to jump into the water. For the adventure down under we were supplied with a full wet suit. Here in Belize were told to wear hiking boots, pants and a t-shirt. We didn't see what was coming at all.

As the water levels in the cave rose we started walking through and then swimming through the water. We had hiked, waded and swam through the caves for well over an hour when we finally came to our first waterfall. I was a little nervous. Maybe it was the homemade rope harness or maybe it was that I had never climbed a 20 foot rock face, let alone one with a waterfall coming off of it. I watched a few others go before me seeing where they were placing their hands and feet on the way up. Of course Michael wasn't nervous at all. I think he was looking forward to the workout aspect of the activity. It became 'my turn' and I swam to the base of the waterfall. Our guide hooked me onto the safety rope as I told her I'd never done anything like this before. She just looked at me and said 'go slow'. I have to admit I had no reason to be nervous. I actually had no trouble getting up the rock face, even with the water splashing on my face. Michael, of course, had no problem.

Our first waterfall was the largest. We tackled two more as we headed deeper into the cave. Their height was closer to ten feet a piece. Besides our extremely heavy wet pants we were loving the experience, but the best part was still to come. We reached the turn around point. We would be heading back the way we came. My head swam with how we would get down the waterfalls we climbed up. There was only one answer, jump. The life jackets we had questioned before began to make sense. We had to jump the shorter waterfalls before reaching the big 20 foot one. This made for good practice as you couldn't just jump, you had to aim. We were in a cave and the pools of water we were aiming for were neither right below us nor bigger than a couple square feet. There was little room for error. On the last jump I was a little freaked out. After plunging into to the water my arm hit a hug rock shelf beside me on my way up to the surface. I was close. Besides my bad but good enough aim on the last jump we had a thrilling time.

Sopping wet and bit chilled we had lunch in the cave. Our guide took us on a bit of a detour up a clay hill to an old Mayan ceremonial ground. We got to see clay pots, the original fire pits and a creepy calcified skull. After hearing the rush of water for so long the silence of the cavern was eerie. Coming out of the ceremonial grounds had to be the most dangerous part of the day. We had to slowly slide down a slippery and steep clay hill on our asses. With no safety gear, any false move would have left one of us tumbling onto the rocks below. We luckily made it down in one piece.

The way back is always shorter than the way there. It was true for our journey out of the caves and into the jungle. Once back at the resort Michael and relaxed until dinner. We headed to the main building early to hang out with other people. We joined our friend Phillip and met a couple from Denver, Curtis and Amy, as well as a few other friendly travelers. When asked about our waterfall adventure Michael kept making everyone laugh by exclaiming 'it was just like Goonies'. We had dinner and laughed the night away. It was great to just hang out with people over a couple drinks.

The next morning we opted to explore the area around us without a group. We headed a few minutes down the main highway towards the Blue Hole National Park. Of course we missed the main entrance only to be caught by our friend Phillip who was heading off on another adventure tour. He laughed and gave us a big wave as we passed him for the second time.

We went on a 30 minute hike through the jungle to the Blue Hole. It is a round turquoise pool of water created by a sink hole located in the middle of the jungle. There we met Amy and Curtis and relaxed for a while. We the went back through the jungle towards St. Herman's cave. We didn't go into the cave but enjoyed the hike there. We were lucky. After such hot dry weather for so long the recent rainfall brought all the butterflies out for a drink. There were new colours and patterns at every turn. I'd never seen anything like it.

After three hours of hiking and hanging out it was time to head back towards Belize City. We stopped half way at a restaurant owned by a friendly American woman we met a while back snorkeling off Caye Caulker called Amigos. After a Belizean meal of chicken with beans and rice we decided to go back to the Belize Zoo.

We were so happy we went back for 'take two' of the zoo. We realized we hadn't seen everything on our first visit. Sitting back and really watching the animals was relaxing. We discovered a pond area without fencing and saw a baby crocodile in the water. I was taking a picture of the crocodile only to realize that I was standing less than a foot from its brother. The crocodile was out of the water right next to the path. If it wanted to take a bite out of me I would have been hopeless. I jumped. Michael laughed at my reaction and decided to get nice and close for a picture. We rationalized the lack of fencing meant that the juvenile crocodiles must be tame. The Belize Zoo wouldn't put their patrons in danger. Right!?! Well, when we came across the pond a little later on we noticed a much larger crocodile on the water bearing its teeth. It just didn't seem right. We avoided crossing that path again.

It was an eventful and fantastic weekend. We felt like we were traveling again. It's an amazingly free feeling. We also realized that all the people we met were asking us where to go after finding out that we've been living here. It was strange to realize how much we've learned about Belize just over four months. It was great to hang out with new people and see the beauty of Belize. I wish every weekend could be spent making such great memories.

The Pics to Prove It

Michael wearing his favourite shirt. What would a weekend be without it!?!

Wild orchids grow on trees in the jungle.

Our private jungle bungalow.

Hanging out on the hammock.

Michael and our friend Phillip.

Michael and I at the Blue Hole.

Michael being Michael in the jungle.

The entrance of St. Herman's Cave.

View of the orange groves from our jungle hike.

The huge Harpy Eagle.

Playful Puma.

Hey, you lookin at me?

The baby crocodile that could have taken my foot.

The larger crocodile that could have easily eaten us is showing it's teeth.

Mundo Maya

2006-04-18T18:48:00.000-06:00

We couldn't wait. We were so excited. This past weekend, taking advantage of living in Central America was easy as we headed out to Mundo Maya, Maya World, in Guatemala.

Just West of Belize, Guatemala was easily reached. The 45 minute flight going there was uneventful. I will mention that we are getting used to taking small planes everywhere we go. We arrived at the Flores Airport in the late afternoon and headed to our hotel. Flores is made up of three towns in close proximity to each other, San Benidito, Santa Elena and Isla de Flores. We stayed in Santa Elena right at the foot of the path to the Island of Flores. Flores is located in the middle of Lake Peten. It is a small, safe and colourful Spanish town. It was amazing to us how we covered so little distance but the culture in Guatemala was so different from Belize.

A country with many problems, a 40 year long civil war that ended just 10 years ago and one of the origins of cocaine production, I wasn't quite sure what to expect. I was pleasantly surprised. The town was very safe with families and children playing into the night. I'm not comparing Flores to violent grip of Guatemala City, but coming from Belize City to a small town gave me a sense of ease.

Our first evening in Guatemala we headed across the lake to Flores for dinner. No cars were allowed to enter the island but we didn't give it much thought. As we walked around to get our bearings in the narrow winding streets we happened upon the Easter Processions. I automatically felt like I was on a travel show, as it's the only place I'd ever seen such a thing. Easter Processions take place on Good Friday, in the evening, during the hours it is thought that Jesus was tortured and killed. For hours and days locals prepare 'carpets' of intricate patterns and pictures using coloured saw dust on the streets. It is forbidden to walk on them. As the traditional Easter Passion Play of Jesus' last days comes to an end people from the town carry large Jesus floats all over town with a band in tow. Sporting there best wears it is a honour to help carry these floats. It's the equivalent of getting a Torah reading in synagogue on Rosh Hashanah. In places like Mexico the float will actually have a live person tied to a cross and in the Philippines the person on the cross will actually have stakes through their hands. In Flores, a small town, the floats had statues. No blood, but interesting none the less. As the procession slowly travels around town they destroy the 'carpets'. The procession takes hours. As the evening progressed the crowd grew. We were pleasantly surprised that we witnessed these processions. People travel to see them and we stumbled upon them by accident. We were more concerned with how we could keep Passover abroad not the local Easter traditions.

Our first full day in Guatemala we awoke early to join our group heading for Tikal. Tikal is one of the major sites of the Mayan Golden Age (6th Century B.C. to 10th Century A.D.). Nestled in the jungle of the Peten Province of Guatemala, Tikal was one of the commercial centres of Mayan civilization. It has huge ceremonial temples, pyramids and public squares or acropolises.

Our Spanglish group was from Mexico, Germany and Costa Rica. Everyone was really nice and we compared notes on living abroad with the German woman residing in San Jose, Costa Rica. We spent the day together with our guide, Franklin, exploring Tikal. It was very busy, but magical. Since the many pyramids and temples are surrounded by jungle you don't realize you are about to come upon these huge structures until you are right in front of them. Massive temple ruins jump out of the trees right in front of you adding to the awe of the place. As we toured around on the original Mayan causways going from pyramids to temples the best was saved for last, the Grand Plaza.

The Grand Plaza is home to the Central and North Acropolises and Temples 1 and 2. The Temples were used for sacrifice and ceremony and the acropolises were used for living and working. The Mayan people sacrificed animals and humans regularly based on a calendar of equinoxes and solstices. They viewed death as something worth aiming for and many who headed towards the chopping block were volunteers. It was considered a good deed. To make it easier, to deal with the torture before the eventual beheading, sacrificial volunteers were given special herbs to change their state of consciousness. They were basically really stoned. To this day some Mayans still practice animal sacrifice at the Grand Plaza at Tikal. If you manage to be in the area on an equinox or solstice it is supposed to be worth the visit to view the ritual.

By the end of our tour we felt like we had a full day. Climbing temples and pyramids in sweltering heat can suck the energy right out of you. We had such a good time we arranged to meet with our tour guide, Franklin, the next morning for a private tour. We headed into town for dinner and in typical fashion I hurt my knee. For anyone who doesn't know my history as a total klutz I have been alternating bashing up my knees. I've managed to bleed in New Zealand, San Pedro, Belize and now Guatemala. It just wouldn't have been a complete trip without hurting myself.

Sunday morning, we awoke early again for another packed day of adventure. Franklin picked us up and we headed back towards Tikal for a zipline canopy tour in the jungle. We flew through over one kilometer of ziplines in the trees. We loved it. Franklin then took us to Yaxha, pronounced Yah-shaw. The Mayan city was made popular by the show Survivor Guatemala. We didn't see any of the show's sets but we learnt a lot about what we were really intersted in, the Mayans. Franklin was the perfect person to have with us. He studied archeology during his undergraduate degree in university. He actually spent three months working to restore one of the Mayan pyramids in Yaxha. He was a fountain of information on Mayan civilizations and it was great to have him to ourselves for the day. Not just to ask questions about the Mayans but to learn more about Guatemala and the culture. Franklin is a fourth year medical student now and was easy for us to relate to. We gained a lot of knowledge from him. Yaxha's temples were not as grand as Tikals, but the entire park was calm, quiet and immacualately maintained. We had a great day.

Our last day in Guatemala was spent hanging out in Flores, purchasing souvenirs and drinking cold limonada con soda by the lake. The lemonade slushy became a fast favourite. Michael's Spanish improved greatly as the weekend went on and I was even able to kinda deal with waiters by the end. By spending the long weekend in Guatemala, I realized how much further Belize needs develop. Being in Belize and talking to Belizeans I would never have known how much more developed Guatemala is compared to Belize. I do have to admit that living somewhere is always different from vacationing there. Reality doesn't have time to set in one weekend.

Either way, I loved Guatemala's favourite national beer, Gallo. At first I was just excited to see my brother's girlfriend, Kathleen's last name everywhere, but I appreciated it more when I realized Gallo translates as 'rooster' or as the Spanish-English dictionary says 'cock'. I liked taking a little petty cab to the airport. After Thailand, I didn't know we would get to ride one again. We were the only passengers on our flight back to Belize. Our tiny plane held just us and our pilot. We had a 360 degree view in the air. I loved the whole weekend. Guatemala and the rest of Central America isn't on most North American's lists of place to go, but I highly recommend it. After seeing just a small town I'm eager to see more.

The Pics to Prove It

Mother Mary and others make into the Easter Procession.

Mayan themed carpet.

Procession continues into the night with a growing crowd.

Michael, being Michael.

The sacred Ceibal tree.

'Don't Go Down' Michael!

Temples 1 and 2 poke out of the jungle when viewing from Temple 4.

Michael in the old pottery studio.

Michael entering the Grand Palaza at Tikal.

Fun in the Central Acropolis.

Dinner at La Luna in Flores.

Flying through ther Guatemalan jungle.

Michael shows off his bicep no matter where he is.

Michael and Franklin overlooking Lake Peten at Yaxha.

Michael picking out and trying on traditional Guatemalan masks.

Our petty cab to the airport.

The little plane that took us back to Belize.

Belize Zoo

2006-04-11T09:01:00.000-06:00

A couple weeks ago, Michael was asked to drive two of his colleagues to the Belize Zoo for bank business. It would be a great opportunity for him to pick me up on the way and explore the zoo together for the afternoon. It was a great idea!

About 40 minutes outside the city, the Belize Zoo sign approaches on the Western Highway. A couple minutes drive up a dirt side road and you realize how special the zoo is. A sign at the entrance explains that all the creatures inside are native to Belize. All animals are taken under the zoo's care because they are orphaned or need rehabilitation. None of the inhabitants are purchased in the same way other zoos acquire their attractions. The most impressive thing about the Belize Zoo is the physical setting. Already in a natural jungle, the cages and pathways are carved through the trees. Unlike North American zoos, where there is a cage, a ten foot gap and then another barrier, the Belize Zoo has electric wire fences, six inches and a small open wooden rail. To their credit there are signs everywhere warning patrons to keep their fingers out of the cages.

You realize how smart the warning sign suggestions are as puma's and jaguars stalk in their cages inches from you. What beautiful and terrifying creatures. Being so close to danger made me a little nervous. Soon after we arrived we walked up to an iguana, we are used to them as they are every where, and it scurried away in fear. Michael jumped back and I let out a screaming laugh. The effect of the animals being so close and in their natural setting made this zoo as close to the real thing as you're gonna get.

We saw toucans, huge eagles, crocodiles and various other creatures of Belizes jungle including their national animal the tapir. The tapir, or mountain cow, is one of the weirdest animals we have ever seen. It's basically a cow with a elephant like snout. Very strange. The Belize Zoo is a very special place. It is possibly the best zoo I've ever been to.

Creatures of Belize

Eagle

Toucan

Jaguar

Michael

Crocodile

Parrot

Tourist Land and a Great Afternoon with Chicago

2006-03-29T12:08:00.000-06:00

Yesterday, was a day of fun, touring and revelation. My cousins Leo and Sheryl, from Chicago, stopped here in Belize as part of their Princess Grand Cruise. After a morning of snorkelling off one of the cayes we managed to meet up at the Tourist Village.

We were to meet just down the ocean from where Michael and I are living at the Wet Lizard restaurant in the Tourist Village. As I entered the Tourist Village I realized that obviously, I blended in very well. Belizeans have to get passes at the office around back to enter this covetted spot in the city. I needed no pass and just walked in with out a second thought or glance.

Once inside I found Leo and Sheryl at the bar waiting to order some lunch. After excited screams and a welcome to Belize we were able to catch up on their cruise, life in Chicago and Toronto and Michael and my experice in Belize. It was great! It was so much fun to have visitors, let alone family I haven't gotten the chance to hang out with for so long.

After a long lunch and some drinks we headed into what seems like the biggest and most expensive structure in all of Belize, the Tourist Village. It's the closest to a mall I had been in for months and I actually found the experience a little overwhelming. It was crowded with all three cruise ships worth of people, all of whom appeared to be American. It was surreal. Being there allowed me to realize how much different my surroundings have been since we have been living here. Sheryl found some cute skirts from a shop where the owner and I made the 'Michael is taking care of my banking' connection, all the while I was astounded that I had not been to this 'Tourist Land' before.

Michael called on my cell phone eager to have us visit him at the bank. Downtown Belize City is just a few minutes walk from the Tourist Village so I took Leo and Sheryl out of the fantasy and in to the real Belize. Within a couple of minutes away from Village the calls for 'braid your hair' and 'taxi' subsided. I ran into my trusty taxi driver, Jason, whom I call when I need to get around, said hello, and we were off towards the bridge. I tried to be a guide transfering the bits of knowledge I had learned since residing here to my Leo and Sheryl. Once over the bridge, I redcognized one of the regular guys who harrass people for cash. He began to approach Leo to bug him. As I saw the approach I whipped around and sternly said 'he has nothing for you'. The pan handler disappeared pretty quick. I realized that I had just been protective of a man who can protect himself so I apologized for my gut reaction. At that moment I more importantly realized that I am finally unafraid of this city. If you didn't know I was afraid when we first arrived.

It is all so familiar now. I thought back to when I first travelled to Jamaica with the Telpners. Michael and I spent an afternoon in a town called Falmouth. I necessarily wasn't afraid, just uncomfortable. After yesterday, I realize my and most people's ability to adapt. After living here I can comfortably say visiting Falmouth after living in Belize City is like visiting Woodstock, Ontario after living in Toronto. How far I've come.

At Scotiabank Michael got to have a quick visit with Leo and Sheryl. I'm happy we left 'Tourist Land' to see him. I know he was thrilled to be able to see them. We don't get visitors very often. We walked back to the Village to get Leo and Sheryl back to the small boat that would take them to their big boat. I'm just sorry Michael and I missed seeing their daughter Amanda and boyfriend Jacob who had been here in Belize a few weeks ago. It was fantastic to meet and and out with family here. To anyone who wants to head down to Central America, we'd be happy to have you and show you the real Belize.

Leo and Sheryl getting ready to go back to their fantastic vacation on the cruise ship.

Great Birthday Gift

2006-03-20T10:46:00.000-06:00

Hello Everyone!

This was a great weekend. How could it not be? It was my birthday on Friday and we had a great time.

First, I want to tell a little about my week. It has been a little while since Michael and my wedding. Reminiscing about the special day and everything surrounding it had long ago ceased. Well, when the Telpners came to Belize they brought with them our wedding pictures and five hours of unedited wedding video. Over the week I got to emotionally tangle myself back into what is definitely the best day of my life. I shed many tears. Watching family and friends all around us showing love is an amazing thing to be able to watch. Most of all I loved seeing Michael and I having the time of our lives. Not only did we have huge smiles on our faces, but the video allowed me to see the way we look at each other with total love and devotion. We are lucky.

Friday night, Michael gave me another reason to feel lucky. This being my first birthday away from home and everything familiar, Michael planned a great night. We started off with drinks at the Andrews home. Pat and Chita, Scotiabank's General Manager and his wife, shared a bottle of wine with us and their daughter Josie. Josie, Paula, Michael and I then headed to a Caribbean style patio bar right on the sea to meet up with some of our new friends from the bank. The bar was great. Live reggage music and the island atmosphere made for an 'everyting irie' time. Michael then took me out for a romantic dinner at Harbour View Restaurant right on the water. I received a phone call on my cell from my family, cousins and all, singing happy birthday. After a relaxed meal and 'Happy Birthday' singing we headed home. It was perfect.

Details aside, I had one of my best birthdays. Besides being able to wear a tank top outdoors Michael never ceases to amaze me. It wasn't the party or dinner that meant so much, it was Michael's desire to make sure I had a great birthday. It's so simple but means so much. Looking back at our wedding day I realize I am a part of a marriage that that is so honest in it's care for one another. I know that the way we looked at each other on our wedding day is way we look at each other everyday and for that I am lucky.

Turning 27 in Belize has been memorable and i owe it all to Michael.

The Pictures To Prove It

Josie, Paula, Michael and I at my Happy Hour Birthday Party.

Michael, David, Sarah and I at the popular place to be.

Michael looking handsome at our table at Harbour View.

In one minute a group of waitresses are coming out to sing 'Happy Birthday' to me.

Telpner Family Adventure

2006-03-13T14:08:00.000-06:00

This week has been quite the Telpner adventure. Instead of their annual stay in Jamaica, Patsy, Ronnie and Meghan came out to Belize to see Michael and I. We started off in Belize city so the Telpners and Stuart, Meghan's friend, could see our surroundings and daily lives. The real family fun began when we headed off to Altun Ha, some Mayan ruins, with Captain Sanchez our knowledgeable and memorable tour guide.

Belize is covered in Mayan ruins, so naturally we had to visit at least one. With Altun Ha's close proximity to Belize City these ruins made for an easy trip. Captain Sanchez took us for the bumpy drive north of the city for our little adventure into ancient Central America. Looking beyond the stands set up with tacky nik-naks for tourists the ruins were pretty amazing. In order for people to get an idea of how the ruins looked back in the day they reconstructed parts of the temples. Most are still covered and look like grassy mounds. We had a great time at Altun Ha. With loads of pictures taken it was time to move on.

We headed back to Belize City to catch the 15 minute flight to the town San Pedro on Ambergris Caye. The plane holds about ten passengers and they even seat someone in the co-pilot seat. Guess what, the lucky co-pilot for the flight was me. It was very cool to see the control panel and to look out the front of the plane. The only thing that made me a little nervous was when the pilot looked at me seriously, played with the controls and with a straight face said "if I pass out this is left, right, up and down, it'll be up to you".

Upon arrival at San Pedro we headed to our villa at El Pescador on the north end of the caye. The north end is much quieter than the golf cart infested streets of San Pedro. The boat ride whisked us off on turquoise waters to the picturesque setting of beaches dotted with palms. The villa was beautiful and came complete with a salt water pool within steps. The sun was shining and the temperature read 'hot', the only thing the Telpner's forgot to pray for was calm winds. After the first day the winds picked up. Gusty would be a understatement. This didn't hamper the Telpner spirit. There was still lots of spontaneous silly dancing, reminiscing coupled with laughter and seriously tanned skin.

My favourite part of the caye was the public path up and down the beach. On the north end of the caye the path was great for walks and bike rides. Of course I managed to mangle my knee during a ride with Michael ending my bike adventures. Ronnie, Patsy, Michael and I went kayaking through mangroves. It was one of the scariest things I've ever done. While in the small tunnel of branches over the water I had the chance to know what it feels like to have a very scary palm size spider within a few inches of my face.

Other than a some dinners in town and the couple of Belize Telpner Adventures most of our time was spent reading, relaxing and laughing. We got to celebrate Ronnie's birthday with him on March 12th. We went for dinner at the nearby resort Captain Morgan's and lavished him with some Belizean gifts and a cake. In anticipation of my birthday, this coming Friday, Meghan brought one of her great bead necklaces. It was great to have the Telpners, plus Stuart, here for the week. Michael got to take a break from work, I got to take a vacation from my vacation and we got to spend time with family. What more could you ask for?

The group at Altun Ha.

Michael and I on top of one of the temples.

Being our silly selves.

Michael the Mayan Ruler of All!

A beautiful villa, just like ours, at El Pescador and the salt water pool.

Taking a bike ride along the beach.

I think this is officially Michael's favourite t-shirt.

Nice shirt, Bite Me!

That is one ridiculously huge chair.

Patsy and Ronnie enjoying dinner with the family.

Stuart and Meghan posing in similar t-shirts, again.

Michael and I enjoying the night.

Ronnie showing off his birthday gifts. Now he's a memeber of the 'Bite Me' team.

I'm sporting my new 'Meghan Made' necklace.

Father and son saying goodbyes on our way to the water taxi.

While waiting for our long, 15 minute, flight home we visited Scotiabank San Pedro.

Seriously, these are our boarding passes for the flight home.

Painting Belize Red

2006-03-02T08:40:00.000-06:00

Yesterday, across the country, citizens of Belize set out to elect their new city councilors and mayors in Decision 2006, municipal Elections. Two parties are on the ballot, the blue People's United Party (PUP) and the red opposition United Democratic Party (UDP). Municipal and federal elections are closely tied here creating a feeling of national change even when voting for a city councilor. Beyond real change that can result through elections, a shady PUP political past charged technician throughout Belize City.

To give you some background, a couple of years ago the present PUP government got in some financial trouble due to bad decisions over Belize Telecommunications Limited (BTL). After selling the country's telephone company and then buying it back at a loss the government went into to a great deal of debt. During this process the government managed to take the pension funds of their people to help pay for the BTL that they owned in the first place. To say the least, the people of Belize were enraged and riots ensued. This election is the people's first chance, since the BTL debacle, to speak up and change the political landscape.

Canadians would assume that it would be an easy choice. The government screwed you so, goodbye. Well, that's not how it works here. The electoral process is a little different than it is in North America. No one was able to predict the results. The municipal and the federal parties are one and the same causing people reluctance in electing a mayor who is in opposition to the federal powers. It's a matter of money and social service distribution. On a different level of politics the campaign game is pretty dirty and completely lopsided.

Blue PUP have money, red UDP do not. PUP owns a radio and television station, UDP does not. The family of PUP Prime Minister owns quite a few of the large Belizean companies, the UDP leader, a lawyer who does not come from cash, does not. This results in a true PUP campaign of commercials, banners, reggae campaign songs performed by popular local artists and guys in pick-up trucks decked out in PUP blue blasting the beats of 'PUP, There For You' across the city. It's quite the show. The UDP is seen only in posters around the city. They cannot afford to put on such a show.

The other reason the issue of money matters so much in this election is the blatant bribing of citizens to vote PUP. On election day representatives of the PUP go to poor neighbourhoods, the majority of neighbourhoods, and offer people cash for their vote. My favourite UDP banner read 'Take de Money and Den Vote UDP'. It seems that is what the people of Belize did yesterday. The people of Belize have not forgotten major mistakes the PUP have made so they took the money and voted for change. As of today, every mayor in the country is UDP. Belize has been painted red.

PUP representatives hang out ion front of the temporary voting tent that was set up at the soccer field down the street.

UDP representatives hanging out during the vote.

Sun and the City

2006-02-27T15:20:00.000-06:00

Hello Everyone,

After two weekends away, Michael and I were happy to stay in Belize City for some sun and relaxation. On Friday night we joined Scotty's cycling group for dinner. Scotty, pictured with Michael, is Michael's cycling instructor from Toronto. Michael is devoted to Scotty's class and when we found out he was bringing a group out to Belize for a cycling trip we had to see him. Dinner with the group was full of laughs. One guy, Matt, was particularly funny. He had stories from around the world. They were mostly about self inflicted injury and the parody that followed. Michael also had a great time chatting with John, one of his spinning buddies, from back home. It was really nice to spend time with the Canadians.

Saturday morning, we took or usual walk to the fruit stand for some juicy treats. Michael found another great watermelon, a 14 pounder this time. We then headed to the Pickwick Club and our temple, the gym. This was followed by what Michael calls 'shul of the pool'. It was a gorgeous sunny day, what else were we to do but work on our tans. Michael was eager to use the aloe he had purchased earlier in the week. He is really serious about getting darker. I think he just wants to look really baked for when the Telpners get here next week. After spending our afternoon in the sun we had dinner and watched the movie 'Munich'. I thought it was great. Good job Spielberg!

Sunday was spent between the pool, gym and tennis court. I like Sundays. There is only one playground in Belize City and it's right beside our building. On Sunday afternoon, families gather at the park to hang out, eat and let their kids play. All the little traditional Spanish food carts open up and it smells great. It's the only place and time I've seen families in Belize City get together to just hang out without it being some kind of holiday or festival. Otherwise, the streets around where we live are quiet. It's nice to see people out and about. All in all, it was great weekend at home.

We're looking forward to our trip away with the Telpners next week. I'll be updating the blog in two weeks following our vacation on Amberigis Caye.

Love y'all!

Michael doing his fitness thing at the park beside our building.

One our way to the Pickwick Club and ready to work out.

The pool and front and entrance building at the Pickwick.

The pool and club house. The white building in the background is our apartment building.

The high tech gym.

Michael working out, he likes to show it off.

Barracks Road on a Sunday afternoon between the Pickwick and our apartment.

Food stand getting ready for the evening rush.

The only park in Belize City has a Police Station. BTL stands for Belize Telecommunications Limited.

Newtown Barracks Police Station, it's open, sometimes.

South For the Weekend

2006-02-20T09:00:00.000-06:00

Michael and I are still getting used to the idea of vacationing in the tropics on weekends. So we had to subject ourselves to another trip in paradise. Along with Michael's co-worker, Landy and his girlfriend Sole, we drove south to the resort town of Placencia.

We headed out on Friday evening in the Scotiabank truck for the four hour drive. Michael was the lucky driver being the only one who can knows standard. With the road being windy, pitch black and unpaved at times, Michael did a great job getting us there in one piece. Michael was convinced that we would get a flat tire and then some twisted 'Texas Chainsaw Massacre' scene would ensue. Just remove the movie's evil character Leather Face and add in a group of scary banditos to make it realistic. Thankfully, the drive was uneventful. I was just happy to arrive at our final destination, Chabil Mars Villas.

The units at Chabil Mars are privately owned and rented out by a management company. The villa we stayed in belongs to one of Landy's clients resulting in a great deal for the weekend. The newly built two bedroom villa was beautiful. I wasn't too surprised by the interior as the villa owner also owns the only furniture and department store in Belize City, Mirab. As nicely decorated as it was we preferred spending our time outside. We ate all our meals on the villa's ocean view deck. Right beside the villa was an infinity pool and directly in front was a soft white sand beach and a simple but upscale pier. My favourite thing in the villa was the bed. It was pillow top, sink into softness, comfortable. It made me miss our bed in Toronto.

Saturday was a wonderful day. Michael and I swam, read and relaxed under the 'not a care in the world' blue sky. We're getting used to living in a bathing suit every weekend. Oh, the torture of it! With the exception of Friday night we didn't go into town. It's not that we didn't want to see Placencia, but after having dinner at a little open air beach restaurant Friday night, we realized that the town is full of tourists and we didn't really care about being there. We get enough Belize culture in the city. We just wanted to sit by the ocean under the sun reading Bryce Courtney and we did.

Saturday afternoon, Landy and Sole went into town to hit the bars. Michael and I stayed at the villa and had a quiet romantic dinner. It was nice. Michael tortured a frog with the repetitive and close up flash of our camera and we realized that quite a few bats live in the trees by the deck. We watched some Olympics and a chunk of the movie 'Castaway'. I think Michael's love for Tom Hanks is a little unnatural. Landy, Sole and a few people Landy knows from the local Scotiabank came back to the villa later that night. They were great people and we had some laughs with them before heading to bed.

Sunday we awoke to cloudy skies. Throughout breakfast we could see fish jumping in the ocean. Michael grabbed his snorkeling gear and we were off to the pier to see if he could catch a glimpse of the fish. Michael jumped in the water and started swim around. Before I even got in the water I heard him shriek like a little girl. The water was murky and he swam right into a fish. It scared the hell out of him and made me laugh hysterically. You would have thought he saw a shark by the way he screamed.

We left Placencia mid-morning. It looked like it was going to rain. We can't seem to get a weekend with two days of good weather. Woe is us! Landy and Sole were definitely ready to leave. They don't do the beach thing very often and were a little groggy after hitting the bars the day before. The drive home was fine. It didn't really rain but the sky didn't clear up either. Michael got us back to Belize City in the record time of three hours. We were happy to be back and were lazy for the rest of the day. We are watching a lot of Olympics. We know a lot about the American athletes as we only get American coverage. Since the Americans know they can't win in hockey this year we don't get to see the hockey games. It basically sucks. On the upside of getting American coverage NBC commentators are actually really funny sometimes and I think I'm falling in love with Matt Lauer. Very scary.

We enjoyed the weekend out of the city. We're happy that we are traveling around the country and seeing the sites, but I think we'll stay home next weekend. Scotty, Michael's spin instructor, is coming here with a cycling group next Friday so we'll try to hang out with them for part of the night. We're looking forward to seeing some familiar faces.

I want to send a shout out to Patsy. It was her birthday this past Sunday. Happy Birthday Patsy! I hope it you had a super fantastic weekend.

Love and great big hugs,
Carly

Playing in Placencia

2006-02-19T17:43:00.000-06:00

The first floor is our villa from the beach.

Our front yard for the weekend.

Landy and Sole in the villa, drink anyone?

Our super comfortable bed.

Michael reading on the beach.

The pier.

My official past time, tanning.

I think he's cute.

The pool right outside the villa.

The beach right by our villa.

Hanging out after dinner on the deck. I think Michael needs a new shirt.

I never know what to do with my arms.

Our friend the frog.

Tough guys in front of the big tough guy truck.

Michael, what are you doing!?!

Sun + Sand = Paradise

2006-02-13T10:32:00.000-06:00

What a great weekend! After Michael's birthday Thursday, we were set to head out to Caye (pronounced 'kee') Caulker for the weekend. Being in the heat of Belize City minus the beach had taken it's toll on me and it was time to bask in the sun on the sand. My birthday gift to Michael would serve us well. The private flight in a four seater plane would only take 20 minutes to get us to paradise.

The flight was great. Michael and I got into our small Carib-Bee plane with the flight sevice's owner, Arthur, and our pilot, his son, Arthur Jr. I had arranged the flight with the help of our new friend David. He was very generous. Picking us up from our apartment and giving Michael the gift of a bottle of wine and a snack. We were very thankful. The plan was to head into the skies, do a quick loop around Belize City for the view and then head over the Caribbean Sea to the caye. Sounded great to me.

Michael was smiling the entire time and he couldn't stop talking about how cool it was. It was a beautiful clear sunny day. The colour of the sky and the sea was bright turquoise and totally unreal. The only turbulence we felt was coming down for the landing and it wasn't bad at all. One of my favourite parts of the experience was upon landing there was a girl on her bike on the runway. The pilot and his dad laughed mumbling 'only in Belize'. They went on to tell us about the cows that they usually spot. They have to radio down to someone to get them out of the way. The filght was great. We got a bit of a tour and a lot of beautiful scenery. I never thought I'd say this, but I wish it was a longer flight.

Once on the caye we had to get a golf cart taxi to take us into the main town. There are no cars on Caye Caulker so all you see is bikes and golf carts, it's part of the island's charm. People kept telling me that Caulker had a 'small town' feel. That's exactly what it felt like. It is a small Caribbean town where you can see the water on either side of the island at the same time. We were staying at one of the nicer hotels in, Barefoot Caribbe. It was your basic room with a great little balcony and hammock. The caye doesn't have all inclusive resorts. The hotels are small and there are a variety of restaurants to choose from all along the main strip. The seafood was incredible and unbelievably cheap.

After lunch at a spot with a fantastic view, we set off to find a snorkeling trip for the afternoon. I was finally going to tackle my fear of the great big things that live under water. I was a little nervous, but optimistic. Belize has some of the best snorkeling and diving in the world. I had to give it a try. Our afternoon tour would take us to three different locations, the close by and shallow coral reef, Hol Chan reserve and Sting Ray Alley. Our first stop was only a five minute boat ride from shore. It was shallow enough that us beginners could put our feet down while getting used to our masks and fins. I started off with a life jacket around my waist. That only lasted a few seconds. Once I got in the water I realized that 1) the water was only four feet deep, 2) fins are great and 3) I can swim. I guess I was just a little nervous at first. Within a few minutes I left the beginners group to check out the coral reef. It's a whole new world. The water was so clear making visibility perfect. The fish were beautiful and the colours amazing.

Our second stop at Hol Chan reserve was even better. The water was deeper, the reef was bigger and there were more fish to see. Michael saw a huge, six foot, black fish, but I missed that moment without regret. We think it might have been a big barracuda. Scary! The tour was kind of funny. There were eight of us on the small speedboat with Edgar, our tour guide. In the water Edgar would point out different fish and corrals with a stick and then surface to inform us of the name. The funny part was his stern and mechanical repetition, "That is a Blue parrot fish, blue parrot fish!" Maybe you had to be there.

Our last stop was definitely the most memorable, Sting Ray Alley. The water at this stop was at most three feet deep allowing only a foot between you and the fish. Once we were all in the water, Edgar started throwing dead fish off the side of the boat. This resulted in a serious feeding frenzy of not only sting rays, but nurse sharks as well. There had to have been at least 50 rays going crazy and a few sharks in the mix. Everyone was pretty close to the underwater riot and I was backing away thinking 'what are these people doing'. Now, sting rays don't bother people unless they feel threatened but the ten foot nurse sharks were enough reason for me to stay at least a few feet away. I actually didn't get really nervous until the huge eight foot ray swam directly underneath me leaving less than a foot between us. Other than that moment of totally paralyzing fear, I was completely fine. I didn't realize how crazy Sting Ray Alley was until later that day when Michael told me, with all his diving and snorkeling experience, he had never seen anything like that. Usually, you might see a couple of rays, not 50. Either way, I loved it and can't wait to go again next weekend. It was a wonderful new experience for me and I am happy Michael got to see something new.

That night we walked down to the Split, home to the Lazy Lizard. It's a great little open air bar on the beach. Bob Marley and everyone just talking and having a great time set a great scene. It was so relaxed. We sat back and enjoyed the sunset without a care in the world. After a very potent drink called Lizard juice, lime and rum slushy, some food was necessary. Dinner on the beach at a restaurant called Bamboo served up great local creole seafood. You just couldn't look at any of the stray cats or they would hang out by your table for half the night. We went for a walk at night, something we haven't done for a while (not recommended in Belize City but completely safe everywhere else in the country). It was a fabulous day I will not easily forget.

The next morning we awoke to the expected cold front. The sky was grey and the wind was howling. Michael's diving trip was cancelled and we decided to head back to the city. Our boat ride back was quite treacherous. The sea was rough. Even on our closed passenger boat everyone sitting near the open rear had to move to the front after getting soaked. They boat caught some air on quite a few waves. We just felt bad for the open air boat that left the dock at the same time as us. I'm sure they were all soaked to the bone. Upon arrival in the city, we were happy to be home. It was a great 24 hours in Caye Caulker. Michael couldn't get over the idea of feeling like we were on a major vacation but we were only gone for 24 hours and could go back so easily. I loved the whole experience and I can't wait to go back!

Caye Caulker, Here We Come!

2006-02-12T14:42:00.000-06:00

Our ride to Caye Caulker.

Michael loving his birthday gift.

The old instrument panel, yikes!

Are you ready for take off?

See that bigger white building on the water? That's where we live.

Our four seater ride

Overview of Belize City.

Michael steering the plane (yeah right).

Coming into Caye Caulker.

We made it! Michael and Arthur Jr., our pilot.

Coming in from the airport on the caye.

Small town charm of Caye Caulker.

Beutiful shallow waters off the caye.

Our balcony at Barefoot Carribe Hotel.

View of Main Street, Caye Caulker from our room.

Ordering drinks at Lazy Lizard Bar.

Hanging out at the Split.

Lazy Lizard Bar.

The Split.

Michael's Windsurf & Water Sports

View of the beach on our way out.

Michael's Belizean Birthday

2006-02-10T08:59:00.000-06:00

As many of you know, yesterday, Michael reached the borderline age of 29! I call it borderline because I managed to ask him quite a few times what it feels like to approach 30. Unfortunately for me the question didn't phase him at all. Anyways, I think he had a great day.

At Scotiabank they got him out from behind his desk for a little surprise celebration in the afternoon. They got him a birthday basket with all sorts of goodies and celebrated with refreshments. He came home with a big smile. He was pleasantly surprised by his new coworkers.

My gift to Michael was an Israeli meal made from scratch. He loves all the dips and big surprise you can't get any of them here. I cooked all day and realized I enjoy my new hobby. My other gift to Michael is a private plane ride out to Caye Caulker. We're heading to the island tomorrow on a small three seater plane. It should be fun! We're finally going to hit the beach after being here for a month. A little sand, a little snorkeling and a whole lot of sun. We can't wait.

Shabbat Shalom and have a great weekend everyone. Love ya!

Michael's 29th Birthday

2006-02-10T08:14:00.000-06:00

Michael at work showing off his birthday basket from everyone at Scotiabank.

Michael's coworker and friend Landy.

The Birthday Boy!

Showing off my tan.

Being silly at every opportunity.

Welcome to my kitchen.

Homemade Israeli dinner in Belize!?!

6:30 am on our balcony.

From the 1920's to Superbowl Reggae Party in One Weekend

2006-02-06T11:05:00.000-06:00

This past Thursday, Chita picked me up to go to the monthly Women's International Club of Belize meeting. This is a group of Belizean and ex-pat women who throw three to four fundraising events a year for Belizeans in need. They're a nice group of ladies who all have their hearts in the right place. The meeting was at Smokey Mermaid, a nice restaurant by the Tourist Village. The meeting started at 9:30am and lasted two hours. It was long and a lot of fun. There was lots of food, drinks and laughs. The ladies don't take themselves too seriously and know how to make a meeting go by quickly. My favourite part of the meeting, the raffle, happened three quarters of the way through. Most members bring some kind of gift bag to the meetings and then the gifts are raffled off. Five tickets only costs $5 BZD. I was very lucky winning a raffle prize at my first meeting. My gift bag had a back scrubber and a new makeup brush set. Good score. It was also quite informative to be at the meeting seeing the next night would be the organizations biggest annual event, the silent auction.

Last year, the silent auction was an unthemed, wine and cheese event. Following the event's success the Women's International Club decided to step it up. This year there would be a full dinner buffet and a theme, the Roaring 1920's. I had the inside scoop on the event being at the meeting, but more importantly I had the real inside information on the auction items. Most of the silent auction items were actually solicited and collected by Chita Andrews, my new best friend in Belize. She is no longer on the club's board, but obviously has the connections to get the good prizes, weekends away at local resorts. This was great for me as I had an insider's view to the real value of the prizes and by being at the meeting I was able to check out the different resorts being put up for bid in advance. Michael and I were ready.

The evening of the event we went down the street to the Mexican Institute ready for a party. The Roaring 1920's theme spurned some great costumes and brought swing music with it. The room was well decorated with hand painted 1920's pictures including a large mural. There was a large room in the middle with a dance floor, a room set up with tons of home cooked and donated restaurant food to one side and another room housing a silent auction section to the other. We spent a great deal of the night by the auction tables and outside.

The Mexican Institute has no air conditioning and I'm not used to the heat yet. It was a little embarrassing. I was shvitzing in a tank top and skirt and everyone else in pants or even long sleeve shirts didn't have a bead of sweat to speak of. Sitting outside did have it's pros. We managed to meet a group of people who work at the American Embassy. I know that American is not Canadian, but once I heard the Chicago accent of the drawn out 'a' from this woman Kim, I had the overwhelming urge to talk to them. Belizeans are unbelievably nice and welcoming but I needed a little resemblance of home. The people were great. They have get together all the time and we exchanged numbers in hopes of getting involved. It would be funny to need your passport to get into a party. We'll see what happens. Security is a little tight.

The auction was the other highlight of the evening. Michael and I were dedicated to winning our bid. We started off bidding on a couple things. There were quite a few weekend resort stays to bid on and I had my heart set on walking out with at least one of them. We bid on a resort in the Cayo District called Chaa Creek and our real favourite a weekend at Caves Branch Resort. As the night progressed so did aggressive bidding. People were watching their bids like hawks hovering around the tables with their full attention. It was a little exhausting competing in the mix for close to an hour, dedicated to winning the prize. Following some bids on Chaa Creek Resort we made the decision to abandon it and focus on Caves Branch. It proved to be worth it. After battling with another woman for the weekend away we scared her off with a jump in our bid price. Even though we upped the amount, we knew it was worth so much more. We won two nights at the jungle resort in an upgraded bungalow, all meals and an adventure tour. Michael and I have obviously chosen the more exciting cave tubing and waterfall adventure. We won the entire package for $315 BZD, about $175 CND. Absolutely fantastic!

The next morning I awoke with a hang over, too many rum and cokes, Michael awoke with a stomach ache, big surprise, and the sky was cloudy and grey. Our weekend trip to Caye Caulker and the beach was not happening. The grey sky was the result of a low pressure system that kept me with a terrible headache for the rest of the day. We decided to relax and do nothing because, here in Belize, we can. Michael did manage to actually play tennis in the afternoon and my headache and nausea subsided at around six in the evening. We had a home cooked meal and watched the movie Mean Girls. It was actually a great night.

Sunday, Superbowl fever was in the air. We hung out at the Pickwick Club for the day. We had a great work out and relaxed in the sun by the pool. Our only mistake was eating at the club. The chicken burger was greasy, nasty and caused a stomach ache in the record time of two minutes. That will never happen again. The club was unusually busy and we chatted with some of our new American Embassy friends, Marco and Kim, and a Canadian girl, Rachel, we had met at last weeks tennis tournament. It was an almost perfect day. Only to be topped off by what we were excited for, American Superbowl commercials. What we didn't realize during the day was the festivities that would take place at the park next door to our building.

During the day a large tent was set up and the music started blasting out heavy reggae bass by 4:00pm. At first we weren't sure what was going to take place, but we knew we'd find out. We were going to visit the park during its usual Sunday night family fun to get some local cuisine for dinner. Every week all the food stands get cooking, the music starts playing and families come for the little train ride around the park. This Sunday would be different. It was Superbowl time. We headed down for some dinner and we were pleasantly surprised by what we found. Extra Mexican food stands, pony rides, photo booths and lots of people. The best part was undoubtedly the tent and what it housed. A large television was playing the game, huge speakers were blasting Bob Marley and you can't leave out some heavily dreaded Rastas dancing the night away. Who needs game commentary anyways? It was a true Belizean moment I'll never forget.

I'll be spending the next couple of days getting ready for Michael's 29th birthday. It's this Thursday and I have some searching to do in order to get everything ready. I'll let you all know how it goes, it's a secret. I'll update soon! Love ya'll.

Roaring 1920's Comes to Belize

2006-02-06T09:31:00.000-06:00

Michael pointing out that the auction is supposed to be silent.

Terri and I checking out what to bid on.

Swing dancers served as entetainment for the 1920's themed evening.

Michael and Pat showing us the auction sheets. It's time to bid!

Josie, Terri and I having a great time.

Patrick Andrews, Chita and Pat's son, the most mature 15 year old we've ever met.

Michael bidding on a weekend away. I hope we get it.

Everyone checking their bids in hope of winning.

Taco Party and the Groggy Morning After

2006-01-30T13:57:00.000-06:00

What a great weekend!

For only being here two weeks, Michael and I have managed to get pretty comfortable. Of course we wouldn't be having such an easy time without the welcoming kindness of everyone at the bank. On Friday night the Salazar family hosted a Taco Party at their home. Everyone from the managing office on the second floor of the bank was invited with their spouse totaling around 35 to 40 guests. Everyone arrived at dinner time, but held off on their taco consumption until they were well liquored up. The homemade taco's were great, but the real highlight was the the over 55 crowd's ability and eagerness to drink. The goal was to party and party hard they did. Michael and I, being quite conservative for this group, were not allowed to not drink. When I poured a sprite one of the bank's ladies poured whiskey into it and then proceeded to make sure I was drinking for the rest of the night. I have to say it was a lot of fun.

Michael and I learned a lot from this party. Karoke and games are taken very seriously here. After everyone consumed at least two or three drinks, which didn't take very long, the karoke machine was turned on. Everyone wanted to sing and they knew exactly what songs they were going to perform. My favourite song of the night was when Josie, the country head's daughter, sang a personalized version of Clarence Carters 'Strokin'. Once everyone sang their intended song it was time for Guesstures. Guesstures is an organized version of charades. We played boys versus girls and of course the girls won. What was hilarious to me was the sibling like squabbling everyone did over rules and points. This Scotiabank group is really like a big extended family. They've all known eachother for years.

I finally met everyone and they were all so fun and welcoming. Michael and I didn't feel like the 'new people'. We felt like we had been around for a long time like everyone else. At the bank there are a lot of parents and there kids working together and many of them have been around for many years. It was great to see that even though the hierarchy at work is strictly adhered to, there were no roles at the party. Just a lot of liquor and laughs. We also realized very quickly that Belizeans aren't hung up on 'what's cool', they really just want to have fun with their co-workers who are also their good friends.

The next morning we awoke groggy and happy. The sun was shining and Michael was ready to explore a little more of our area. We headed to the local fruit stand, Stephany's. We had to get moving quickly because everything closes on Saturdays by noon. At the stand we met the American Ambassador to Belize. Michael made sure that we could get on the American list for any future events. We can't remember their names, but they were very nice. This being Michael's first visit, he loved it. Pineapples, papayas and watermelons in abundance and they are really cheap. I've been buying papaya and pineapple the whole time we've been here but it was time to come home with a 13 pound watermelon. It was worth lugging it home. It could be the best watermelon we've ever had and Michael had to say the line'I carried a watermelon'. Looking out from our balcony I could see a cruise ship was in for the day so we headed down the road, along the water, to the tourist village and the local department store, Mirab. It's a really nice 20 minute walk along the water. I also wanted to show Michael the department store so he could get an idea of what is available in Belize, which is not much.

In the tourist village on a cruise ship day the streets are bustling. A market of nik naks is set up and taxi cab drivers harass everyone who walks by. I taught Michael that if you just tell them you live here they actually apologize for bugging you and leave you alone. Otherwise, they'll bother you incessantly. It can make you crazy. By the time we got to Mirab, the department store, the sun was hot and it was time to go home for lunch. We spent the rest of the day doing what you do in Belize, hanging out by the pool and working out. We also learnt that no one really goes out on Saturday night. Friday's the party night. So we headed back to Sumathi, the Indian restaurant across the street, for dinner and had an early night.

On Sunday, Michael went to play in a tennis tournament at the club across the street. It was a weak/strong doubles tournament. Strong players are coupled with weaker players to play three or four short matches throughout the day. Michael was paired with an Italian man named Gastone. Him and his wife Marta, from Honduras, were friendly. He used to have an Italian restaurant in Washington D.C. and due to Marta's job he's in the same position as me, he can't work. Both Gastone and I have a lot of time on our hands so he agreed to giving me some cooking lessons. Lucky me. It was a fun day of watching tennis, hanging out by the pool and meeting new people.

I could get used to all of this.

Hugs + Love
Carly

Belizean Taco Party and the Groggy Morning After - The Pics

2006-01-30T08:51:00.000-06:00

Chita Andrews, the country head's wife, and I at the party Friday night.

Pat Andrews, the Big Boss in Belize, and Michael.

Sarah (far right), Michael's other boss, and her husband David (left).

Girls just want to have fun! Karoke is taken very seriously in Belize.

Getting ready for my singing debut.

Michael on his way to getting overboozie.

Having a great time.

Michael performing at Guesstures.

Stephany's Fruit Stand, the best place to get all your fruit and veg needs.

Pinapple anyone?

'I carried a watermelon.'

Baymen St. where the fruit stand is.

Walking along the water on a sunny Saturday.

Belize Central Bank.

Are we there yet?

View of our apartment building from down the road.

What muscles?

Best watermelon ever, I swear.

Eating some of our 13 pound watermelon on the balcony.

The other view from our balcony.

Buying a Bicycle

2006-01-27T12:00:00.000-06:00

Yesterday, I headed into the South side with Michael on his way to work. I was determined to get the crappiest bicycle I could. You see, here in Belize the nicer your bike is the sooner it will be taken from you. So after arriving at Scotiabank, saying hi to the ladies at the bank and retrieving some cash I was ready to make a terrible but great purchase. Michael wanted the bank messenger, Vern, to come with me as he was afraid I'd be 'taken' so to speak. Seeing I look like a tourist. So Vern and I headed around the corner from the bank to take a look at was available. We first stopped at Hop Sing's, a highly recommended bike shop. All the bikes were so colourful, shiny and new. Totally not what I was looking for. As Vern and I walked out of the shop he was laughing at me hysterically as I told him my goal of getting the worst bike I could find. Just a few store fronts down the road we arrived at another bicycle shop. I have no idea what it's called and it honestly doesn't matter. To my dismay all the bikes were nice and new. I started talking to the sales woman. A Chinese woman named Rose who grew up in Belize City. She explained to me that you can't buy a used bicycle in Belize. All used bikes are stolen bikes. So I started to look at my cycling options.

Most people in Belize ride beach bikes. You sit upright and they have pedal breaks. Not for me. They had just a few mountain bikes so I started to show some interest. Rose, the sales woman, let me know that she would give me a good deal, a discount. I asked what kind of discount she could give on a $185 BZ price tag. She offered $175 at which point I changed to subject to bike locks. Here in the city your lock is the most important part of your bike. I picked up the $20 heavy lock and began to bargain. I essentially asked for the bike and the lock for $175 and ended up paying $176 for the complete package, a plain silver bike and an expensive lock. Vern, who Michael sent with me so I wouldn't get ripped off, just stood there and watched. I have to say I'm getting pretty ruthless here. In the end I made a new friend who will help maintain my bike, Rose, and I paid a great price.

It's a weird paradox here. You slow down being in Caribbean culture, but you also learn to get more aggressive so things you need to get done, get done. I had ordered a water cooler a week ago. At the time I was told that it would only take a couple days for it to arrive. Well a week later, we of course, had no cooler. So yesterday, I called the company and told them that if they didn't come by the end of the day that they shouldn't bother. They brought the water cooler a few hours later. 'Thank you's' just don't work here.

So we're pretty much settled in. We aren't waiting for anything else. Thank god! I took my new bicycle to the closest grocery store this morning. As I was leaving I took some pictures of one of only a few big round abouts. We have a party tonight with all the Scotiabankers. It should be fun. We're in Central America and it's a taco party, who would've thought? Michael wants me to take him to the fruit and vegetable stand tomorrow. I think he wants to see what's in Belize City beyond the bank. I'm just happy it isn't raining right now.

Bye for now.

Off to the Grocery Store

2006-01-27T11:23:00.000-06:00

The closest grocery store. Save-U is one of the five places to go to get food.

One of the major round abouts in the North end of the city.

The same round about.

One of the roads leading into the city.

The Belize City Centre where they hold big concerts and events.

The gum is called 'College Girls Say No to Drugs'. We think it's funny.

Belizean Bedroom

2006-01-25T16:29:00.000-06:00

Following some requests here

are some pictures of our bedroom.

Week One Pics - Our Apartment

2006-01-24T08:55:00.000-06:00

Our first Shabbat in Belize and my first Challah.

Michael in his snazzy Scotiabank T-shirt.

Our kitchen.

Our living room.

The apartment.

View from our balcony.

Michael's first day of work.

Week One in the Sun

2006-01-24T08:08:00.000-06:00

Hi Everyone!

It's a miracle. We have internet. It only took a week.

Michael and I are doing great. We are adjusting to life in the sunny slow lane well with a side of culture shock. The bank is more formal that Michael thought it would be but everyone is really nice and have been extremely welcoming. The country head of Scotia Belize and his family have really been taking care of us. His wife, Chita, has taken me under her wing. She takes me grocery shopping and calls me to make sure everything is OK. Grocery shopping is different here, it being a third world country and all. You have to go to six different places just to get essentials and they don't always carry everything you are looking for. It's not too bad, I'm learning to be a good cook. I actually baked a challah this past Shabbat. Pat Andrews the country head has also asked for my help on a project requesting money from Scotia's head office for an ongoing fundraising effort to help Belizean youth in need.

Life's very chill here. We're members of the Pickwick Club across the street. Michael and I get to work out, play tennis, relax by the pool and tonight I'm going to a yoga class. Our apartment is great! We have an amazing view of the ocean from our bedroom and balcony and, yes, we do have air conditioning. The entire country pirates their television cable so we have great channels. We get lots of movies, HBO and even CTV from Toronto as a part of the hundred choices at our fingertips.

In essence living in Belize city is like living in a relatively safe, multi-cultural, Jamaican city. Not too bad. I'll have a bicycle to help me get around tomorrow but this being a small city, population 70,000, nothing is that far.

I hope you are all doing well. I'll email everyone seperately soon.

Love and hugs,
Carly