Belize It Or Not: May 2006

It wasn't the average May long weekend. Exploring Belize took us into the jungle for an adventure we'll never forget. We've done our share adventure traveling, but our stay at Caves Branch in the heart if the Belizean jungle was just what we needed to get our adrenaline going.

Months ago, at a silent auction, we hovered over a vacation package for two nights, all meals and an adventure for two at Ian Anderson's Caves Branch Jungle Resort. We didn't realize what we were bidding on, but after experiencing this weekend we know our instincts were right.

Caves Branch Jungle Resort is set in the picturesque green of the jungle. Feeling fully isolated the resort is small and attracts travelers looking for a thrill. Acres upon acres of land was bought 15 years ago by a Vancouverite, Ian Anderson, who explored the area and built the resort from scratch. Ian and his family still live at the resort and frequently hangs out with travelers who stop by. Over dinner our first night he told us stories of discovering caves and trails in the jungle around us. He and his crew went into the jungle uncovering close to 70 caves. At the time, Belize's Department of Archaeology knew of just four. Ian is a true pioneer.

Caves Branch Resort has a main building where all guests share meals at set times. There are varying accommodations at varying prices for everyone from backpackers looking for a place to pitch their tents to honeymooners looking for a romantic and private getaway. We stayed in one of their upgraded Jungle Bungalows. The stand alone structure had large screens along the walls leaving us open to the elements of the jungle. Hearing the jungle at all times was so relaxing. We didn't even mind being woken at three in the morning to the screams of howler monkeys who live near by.

We arrived on Saturday afternoon and took the opportunity to relax on hammocks in the jungle. We had already decided what adventure we wanted to experience. The resort offers the ever popular cave tubing and zip lines, but those activities didn't seem to pose a big enough challenge for Michael and I. After our expeditions in New Zealand, we feel like we can do anything. How could we resist the adventure titled 'Waterfall Cave Expedition'. With a vague explanation of something to do with climbing waterfalls in caves we were ready for anything.

After a great breakfast with new fast friends at the resort we headed out for the day. It was raining, but we didn't care; we'd be in a cave all day. We took a ride on the back of a pickup truck. A very dangerous and Belizean thing to do. After passing through orange groves in the vehicle we headed into the jungle for a short hike to the cave. We each received a pack with drinking water, a life jacket, a rope and a helmet with a head lamp. We didn't understand why we were handed life jackets as the rainy season hasn't set in yet. We put it to safety procedure and didn't think to much of it.

At the cave entrance we were met by a community of bats. After brief observation of the flying rodents we moved on. With five hours of underground fun ahead of us we needed to get going. As we headed in to the cave it was bone dry. We made our way ducking under and around rocks. As we traveled through we began to encounter puddles of water that slowly became small streams. At one point Michael and our new English friend Phillip were jumping rock to rock avoiding getting their shoes wet. It was pointed out to them that they would be getting very wet very soon. We thought we knew what was coming, but really had no idea.

In New Zealand we went caving. So of course we assumed we knew everything there is to know about being underground. Well, you know what they sat about assuming. We obviously had no clue. In New Zealand we went tubing and had to jump into the water. For the adventure down under we were supplied with a full wet suit. Here in Belize were told to wear hiking boots, pants and a t-shirt. We didn't see what was coming at all.

As the water levels in the cave rose we started walking through and then swimming through the water. We had hiked, waded and swam through the caves for well over an hour when we finally came to our first waterfall. I was a little nervous. Maybe it was the homemade rope harness or maybe it was that I had never climbed a 20 foot rock face, let alone one with a waterfall coming off of it. I watched a few others go before me seeing where they were placing their hands and feet on the way up. Of course Michael wasn't nervous at all. I think he was looking forward to the workout aspect of the activity. It became 'my turn' and I swam to the base of the waterfall. Our guide hooked me onto the safety rope as I told her I'd never done anything like this before. She just looked at me and said 'go slow'. I have to admit I had no reason to be nervous. I actually had no trouble getting up the rock face, even with the water splashing on my face. Michael, of course, had no problem.

Our first waterfall was the largest. We tackled two more as we headed deeper into the cave. Their height was closer to ten feet a piece. Besides our extremely heavy wet pants we were loving the experience, but the best part was still to come. We reached the turn around point. We would be heading back the way we came. My head swam with how we would get down the waterfalls we climbed up. There was only one answer, jump. The life jackets we had questioned before began to make sense. We had to jump the shorter waterfalls before reaching the big 20 foot one. This made for good practice as you couldn't just jump, you had to aim. We were in a cave and the pools of water we were aiming for were neither right below us nor bigger than a couple square feet. There was little room for error. On the last jump I was a little freaked out. After plunging into to the water my arm hit a hug rock shelf beside me on my way up to the surface. I was close. Besides my bad but good enough aim on the last jump we had a thrilling time.

Sopping wet and bit chilled we had lunch in the cave. Our guide took us on a bit of a detour up a clay hill to an old Mayan ceremonial ground. We got to see clay pots, the original fire pits and a creepy calcified skull. After hearing the rush of water for so long the silence of the cavern was eerie. Coming out of the ceremonial grounds had to be the most dangerous part of the day. We had to slowly slide down a slippery and steep clay hill on our asses. With no safety gear, any false move would have left one of us tumbling onto the rocks below. We luckily made it down in one piece.

The way back is always shorter than the way there. It was true for our journey out of the caves and into the jungle. Once back at the resort Michael and relaxed until dinner. We headed to the main building early to hang out with other people. We joined our friend Phillip and met a couple from Denver, Curtis and Amy, as well as a few other friendly travelers. When asked about our waterfall adventure Michael kept making everyone laugh by exclaiming 'it was just like Goonies'. We had dinner and laughed the night away. It was great to just hang out with people over a couple drinks.

The next morning we opted to explore the area around us without a group. We headed a few minutes down the main highway towards the Blue Hole National Park. Of course we missed the main entrance only to be caught by our friend Phillip who was heading off on another adventure tour. He laughed and gave us a big wave as we passed him for the second time.

We went on a 30 minute hike through the jungle to the Blue Hole. It is a round turquoise pool of water created by a sink hole located in the middle of the jungle. There we met Amy and Curtis and relaxed for a while. We the went back through the jungle towards St. Herman's cave. We didn't go into the cave but enjoyed the hike there. We were lucky. After such hot dry weather for so long the recent rainfall brought all the butterflies out for a drink. There were new colours and patterns at every turn. I'd never seen anything like it.

After three hours of hiking and hanging out it was time to head back towards Belize City. We stopped half way at a restaurant owned by a friendly American woman we met a while back snorkeling off Caye Caulker called Amigos. After a Belizean meal of chicken with beans and rice we decided to go back to the Belize Zoo.

We were so happy we went back for 'take two' of the zoo. We realized we hadn't seen everything on our first visit. Sitting back and really watching the animals was relaxing. We discovered a pond area without fencing and saw a baby crocodile in the water. I was taking a picture of the crocodile only to realize that I was standing less than a foot from its brother. The crocodile was out of the water right next to the path. If it wanted to take a bite out of me I would have been hopeless. I jumped. Michael laughed at my reaction and decided to get nice and close for a picture. We rationalized the lack of fencing meant that the juvenile crocodiles must be tame. The Belize Zoo wouldn't put their patrons in danger. Right!?! Well, when we came across the pond a little later on we noticed a much larger crocodile on the water bearing its teeth. It just didn't seem right. We avoided crossing that path again.

It was an eventful and fantastic weekend. We felt like we were traveling again. It's an amazingly free feeling. We also realized that all the people we met were asking us where to go after finding out that we've been living here. It was strange to realize how much we've learned about Belize just over four months. It was great to hang out with new people and see the beauty of Belize. I wish every weekend could be spent making such great memories.

The Pics to Prove It