Belize It Or Not

Wednesday, March 29, 2006

Tourist Land and a Great Afternoon with Chicago

Yesterday, was a day of fun, touring and revelation. My cousins Leo and Sheryl, from Chicago, stopped here in Belize as part of their Princess Grand Cruise. After a morning of snorkelling off one of the cayes we managed to meet up at the Tourist Village.

We were to meet just down the ocean from where Michael and I are living at the Wet Lizard restaurant in the Tourist Village. As I entered the Tourist Village I realized that obviously, I blended in very well. Belizeans have to get passes at the office around back to enter this covetted spot in the city. I needed no pass and just walked in with out a second thought or glance.

Once inside I found Leo and Sheryl at the bar waiting to order some lunch. After excited screams and a welcome to Belize we were able to catch up on their cruise, life in Chicago and Toronto and Michael and my experice in Belize. It was great! It was so much fun to have visitors, let alone family I haven't gotten the chance to hang out with for so long.

After a long lunch and some drinks we headed into what seems like the biggest and most expensive
structure in all of Belize, the Tourist Village. It's the closest to a mall I had been in for months and I actually found the experience a little overwhelming. It was crowded with all three cruise ships worth of people, all of whom appeared to be American. It was surreal. Being there allowed me to realize how much different my surroundings have been since we have been living here. Sheryl found some cute skirts from a shop where the owner and I made the 'Michael is taking care of my banking' connection, all the while I was astounded that I had not been to this 'Tourist Land' before.

Michael called on my cell phone eager to have us visit him at the bank. Downtown Belize City is just a few minutes walk from the Tourist Village so I took Leo and Sheryl out of the fantasy and in to the real Belize. Within a couple of minutes away from Village the calls for 'braid your hair' and 'taxi' subsided. I ran into my trusty taxi driver, Jason, whom I call when I need to get around, said hello, and we were off towards the bridge. I tried to be a guide transfering the bits of knowledge I had learned since residing here to my Leo and Sheryl. Once over the bridge, I redcognized one of the regular guys who harrass people for cash. He began to approach Leo to bug him. As I saw the approach I whipped around and sternly said 'he has nothing for you'. The pan handler disappeared pretty quick. I realized that I had just been protective of a man who can protect himself so I apologized for my gut reaction. At that moment I more importantly realized that I am finally unafraid of this city. If you didn't know I was afraid when we first arrived.

It is all so familiar now. I thought back to when I first travelled to Jamaica with the Telpners. Michael and I spent an afternoon in a town called Falmouth. I necessarily wasn't afraid, just uncomfortable. After yesterday, I realize my and most people's ability to adapt. After living here I can comfortably say visiting Falmouth after living in Belize City is like visiting Woodstock, Ontario after living in Toronto. How far I've come.

At Scotiabank Michael got to have a quick visit with Leo and Sheryl. I'm happy we left 'Tourist Land' to see him. I know he was thrilled to be able to see them. We don't get visitors very often. We walked back to the Village to get Leo and Sheryl back to the small boat that would take them to their big boat. I'm just sorry Michael and I missed seeing their daughter Amanda and boyfriend Jacob who had been here in Belize a few weeks ago. It was fantastic to meet and and out with family here. To anyone who wants to head down to Central America, we'd be happy to have you and show you the real Belize.

Leo and Sheryl getting ready to go back to their fantastic vacation on the cruise ship.

Monday, March 20, 2006

Great Birthday Gift

Hello Everyone!

This was a great weekend. How could it not be? It was my birthday on Friday and we had a great time.

First, I want to tell a little about my week. It has been a little while since Michael and my wedding. Reminiscing about the special day and everything surrounding it had long ago ceased. Well, when the Telpners came to Belize they brought with them our wedding pictures and five hours of unedited wedding video. Over the week I got to emotionally tangle myself back into what is definitely the best day of my life. I shed many tears. Watching family and friends all around us showing love is an amazing thing to be able to watch. Most of all I loved seeing Michael and I having the time of our lives. Not only did we have huge smiles on our faces, but the video allowed me to see the way we look at each other with total love and devotion. We are lucky.

Friday night, Michael gave me another reason to feel lucky. This being my first birthday away from home and everything familiar, Michael planned a great night. We started off with drinks at the Andrews home. Pat and Chita, Scotiabank's General Manager and his wife, shared a bottle of wine with us and their daughter Josie. Josie, Paula, Michael and I then headed to a Caribbean style patio bar right on the sea to meet up with some of our new friends from the bank. The bar was great. Live reggage music and the island atmosphere made for an 'everyting irie' time. Michael then took me out for a romantic dinner at Harbour View Restaurant right on the water. I received a phone call on my cell from my family, cousins and all, singing happy birthday. After a relaxed meal and 'Happy Birthday' singing we headed home. It was perfect.

Details aside, I had one of my best birthdays. Besides being able to wear a tank top outdoors Michael never ceases to amaze me. It wasn't the party or dinner that meant so much, it was Michael's desire to make sure I had a great birthday. It's so simple but means so much. Looking back at our wedding day I realize I am a part of a marriage that that is so honest in it's care for one another. I know that the way we looked at each other on our wedding day is way we look at each other everyday and for that I am lucky.


Turning 27 in Belize has been memorable and i owe it all to Michael.

The Pictures To Prove It

Josie, Paula, Michael and I at my Happy Hour Birthday Party.

Michael, David, Sarah and I at the popular place to be.

Michael looking handsome at our table at Harbour View.

In one minute a group of waitresses are coming out to sing 'Happy Birthday' to me.

Monday, March 13, 2006

Telpner Family Adventure


This week has been quite the Telpner adventure. Instead of their annual stay in Jamaica, Patsy, Ronnie and Meghan came out to Belize to see Michael and I. We started off in Belize city so the Telpners and Stuart, Meghan's friend, could see our surroundings and daily lives. The real family fun began when we headed off to Altun Ha, some Mayan ruins, with Captain Sanchez our knowledgeable and memorable tour guide.

Belize is covered in Mayan ruins, so naturally we had to visit at least one. With Altun Ha's close proximity to Belize City these ruins made for an easy trip. Captain Sanchez took us for the bumpy drive north of the city for our little adventure into ancient Central America. Looking beyond the stands set up with tacky nik-naks for tourists the ruins were pretty amazing. In order for people to get an idea of how the ruins looked back in the day they reconstructed parts of the temples. Most are still covered and look like grassy mounds. We had a great time at Altun Ha. With loads of pictures taken it was time to move on.

We headed back to Belize City to catch the 15 minute flight to the town San Pedro on Ambergris Caye. The plane holds about ten passengers and they even seat someone in the co-pilot seat. Guess what, the lucky co-pilot for the flight was me. It was very cool to see the control panel and to look out the front of the plane. The only thing that made me a little nervous was when the pilot looked at me seriously, played with the controls and with a straight face said "if I pass out this is left, right, up and down, it'll be up to you".

Upon arrival at San Pedro we headed to our villa at El Pescador on the north end of the caye. The north end is much quieter than the golf cart infested streets of San Pedro. The boat ride whisked us off on turquoise waters to the picturesque setting of beaches dotted with palms. The villa was beautiful and came complete with a salt water pool within steps. The sun was shining and the temperature read 'hot', the only thing the Telpner's forgot to pray for was calm winds. After the first day the winds picked up. Gusty would be a understatement. This didn't hamper the Telpner spirit. There was still lots of spontaneous silly dancing, reminiscing coupled with laughter and seriously tanned skin.

My favourite part of the caye was the public path up and down the beach. On the north end of the caye the path was great for walks and bike rides. Of course I managed to mangle my knee during a ride with Michael ending my bike adventures. Ronnie, Patsy, Michael and I went kayaking through mangroves. It was one of the scariest things I've ever done. While in the small tunnel of branches over the water I had the chance to know what it feels like to have a very scary palm size spider within a few inches of my face.

Other than a some dinners in town and the couple of Belize Telpner Adventures most of our time was spent reading, relaxing and laughing. We got to celebrate Ronnie's birthday with him on March 12th. We went for dinner at the nearby resort Captain Morgan's and lavished him with some Belizean gifts and a cake. In anticipation of my birthday, this coming Friday, Meghan brought one of her great bead necklaces. It was great to have the Telpners, plus Stuart, here for the week. Michael got to take a break from work, I got to take a vacation from my vacation and we got to spend time with family. What more could you ask for?



The group at Altun Ha.

Michael and I on top of one of the temples.

Being our silly selves.

Michael the Mayan Ruler of All!

A beautiful villa, just like ours, at El Pescador and the salt water pool.

Taking a bike ride along the beach.

I think this is officially Michael's favourite t-shirt.

Nice shirt, Bite Me!

That is one ridiculously huge chair.

Patsy and Ronnie enjoying dinner with the family.

Stuart and Meghan posing in similar t-shirts, again.

Michael and I enjoying the night.

Ronnie showing off his birthday gifts. Now he's a memeber of the 'Bite Me' team.

I'm sporting my new 'Meghan Made' necklace.

Father and son saying goodbyes on our way to the water taxi.

While waiting for our long, 15 minute, flight home we visited Scotiabank San Pedro.

Seriously, these are our boarding passes for the flight home.

Thursday, March 02, 2006

Painting Belize Red



Yesterday, across the country, citizens of Belize set out to elect their new city councilors and mayors in Decision 2006, municipal Elections. Two parties are on the ballot, the blue People's United Party (PUP) and the red opposition United Democratic Party (UDP). Municipal and federal elections are closely tied here creating a feeling of national change even when voting for a city councilor. Beyond real change that can result through elections, a shady PUP political past charged technician throughout Belize City.

To give you some background, a couple of years ago the present PUP government got in some financial trouble due to bad decisions over Belize Telecommunications Limited (BTL). After selling the country's telephone company and then buying it back at a loss the government went into to a great deal of debt. During this process the government managed to take the pension funds of their people to help pay for the BTL that they owned in the first place. To say the least, the people of Belize were enraged and riots ensued. This election is the people's first chance, since the BTL debacle, to speak up and change the political landscape.

Canadians would assume that it would be an easy choice. The government screwed you so, goodbye. Well, that's not how it works here. The electoral process is a little different than it is in North America. No one was able to predict the results. The municipal and the federal parties are one and the same causing people reluctance in electing a mayor who is in opposition to the federal powers. It's a matter of money and social service distribution. On a different level of politics the campaign game is pretty dirty and completely lopsided.

Blue PUP have money, red UDP do not. PUP owns a radio and television station, UDP does not. The family of PUP Prime Minister owns quite a few of the large Belizean companies, the UDP leader, a lawyer who does not come from cash, does not. This results in a true PUP campaign of commercials, banners, reggae campaign songs performed by popular local artists and guys in pick-up trucks decked out in PUP blue blasting the beats of 'PUP, There For You' across the city. It's quite the show. The UDP is seen only in posters around the city. They cannot afford to put on such a show.

The other reason the issue of money matters so much in this election is the blatant bribing of citizens to vote PUP. On election day representatives of the PUP go to poor neighbourhoods, the majority of neighbourhoods, and offer people cash for their vote. My favourite UDP banner read 'Take de Money and Den Vote UDP'. It seems that is what the people of Belize did yesterday. The people of Belize have not forgotten major mistakes the PUP have made so they took the money and voted for change. As of today, every mayor in the country is UDP. Belize has been painted red.


PUP representatives hang out ion front of the temporary voting tent that was set up at the soccer field down the street.

UDP representatives hanging out during the vote.